Think London and the usual suspects pop into your head, right? (Followed by real comments I’ve heard people say):
There’s Big Ben (“Like, I thought it would be bigger”)
Buck Pal – (“Is that it? But what else is there to do here?”)
The pretty pastel-coloured houses of Notting Hill – (“More like Nothing Hill”)
The British Museum – yes, OK, we’ve all seen the TikToks, there’s nothing actually British in there.
I get it.
You want …something else. Take me off the beaten, tired old tourist track PLEASE, you cry from beyond. I hear ya. This isn’t your first rodeo.
So let me take you by the hand to discover London’s other side. A wilder side, a quieter side, a kooky and an altogether grimier side.
This is the London us Londoners usually keep to ourselves, but a London that deserves to be seen and shared nonetheless.
London for walkers:
Canal walks
London might not be Venice, and it isn’t even Amsterdam but the canal network is vast and well worth exploring. Once dominated by Victorian freight-carrying barges, the canals are home to miles and miles of walkways (known as towpaths), inhabited by houseboat-owning eccentrics who’ve ditched the landlubber nine to five for a more nomadic lifestyle. Although some still have their office jobs, of course. Houseboats aren’t cheap!
The most famous is Regent’s Canal, known for its picture-perfect views of Little Venice, from where you can hop on a tourist barge to Camden Lock via Regent’s Park. It’s all rather genteel and frankly, done.
Since we’re avoiding well-trodden paths, my advice: start at King’s Cross.
You’ll find the canal behind the station. In recent years, the King’s Cross area has become an overwhelming multifunctional space, so stay focused and head to the water. You’ll get to a bridge and on your left you’ll spot astro-turf-covered giant steps. If it’s not raining, there will be folk aplenty lounging about drinking cocktails from a can. Not because they’re vagrants but because London prices have pushed canny supermarkets to respond to thrifty consumer needs. It’s also not illegal to drink in public; it’s alfresco entertainment, UK style.
Head to the astroturf and turn left along the canal- there will be signs, and go in the opposite direction of Camden Town.
Your first stop will be Angel; postcode N1 and home to the North London Intelligentsia (politicians and literary types abound in this area). You’ll need to get off the towpath here but signs will promptly lead you back on. Although once here, it’s worth a little saunter along Camden Passage (a charming historical side street bustling with cafes, restaurants, pubs and shops). Once back, follow signs for Victoria Park which is a treasure in and of itself.
But if you’re in a walking mood, I salute you. You’ll have two choices here; either head south and continue on the Regent’s Canal, past Mile End Park to Limehouse Basin where the canal rejoins the Thames. This is the true East End of London with lots to explore.
Or, take Hertford Canal (there will be signs) and follow it to Hackney and a stone’s throw from the Olympic Village, the Olympic Park and Stratford (where you can take an Overground or the Central Line back to central London in no time).
Either way you’ll be rewarded with miles of London’s industrial past, its somewhat depressing corporate “luxury apartment” present, kooky characters, alternative lifestyles and numerous watering holes all along the way.
London – if you like it up close and personal:
Hackney Wick Community Sauna
London might not be first on the list when you think of sauna destinations, but unexpected things like this are always cropping up in this town.
Hackney Wick – a magnet for alternative culture for some time now (think Bushwick, but also not), is the location for Community Sauna Baths flagship sauna.
In the garden of a repurposed 1920s Public Bath House, you’ll find 6 communal sauna huts, showers, plunge barrels and tubs and just a whole lot of good vibes. The rest of the building is dedicated to a cafe, artist studios and a general community centre. They host guided meditations, traditional German style sauna experiences, sound baths and offer various holistic treatments.
A short walk from the above-mentioned canal and Stratford, you can also take an Overground train to Hackney Wick. The street art, students and ironic clothing will all signal you are in the right place. If you want to talk to Londoners about original places to go out and underground scenes, the Hackney Wick Community Sauna might just be the place to do it.
London if Love is always Love:
Dalston Superstore Drag Brunch (and more)
Dalston, in north-east London, is a world unto itself. Whether you’re looking for second-hand clothes, good food, an international street market or just a fun night out, Dalston, and Stoke Newington by extension, has been a favourite for years now. While it has no Tube station, there are a million buses and two Overground stations that service the area so you’ll never be stuck.
If you’re looking for brunch ideas, try the iconic Dalston Superstore Drag Brunch. While drag brunches and cabarets have become a mainstay in the capital (and beyond), at least at Dalston Superstore you can be confident that you are attending a well-established community-run event, rather than satisfying the pink pound-seeking whim of a corporate chain CEO.
Still a cornerstone of the LGBTQ+ community, Dalston Superstore packs in funlovers by night and day with good reason. Every Saturday and Sunday from 12-5pm; expect music, quizzes, games, raucous humour and a vegan-friendly brunch menu to boot.
Make a Dalston Day of it and head to Ridley Road Market beforehand (Monday – Saturday 9:30am – 4pm) and then come back in the evening for a little boogie at the tropically themed Ridley Road Market Bar.
Alternatively, mooch over to Stoke Newington Church Street for a village feel that still, while clearly gentrified, has somehow maintained its charm, offering great places to eat and drink.
London if you’re a bit of a bohemian
Johnson Island Artist Village and Eel Pie Island
London and its little mysteries….
Way over in rugby haven Twickenham, west London, is a little-known place on the Thames called Eel Pie Island. It’s accessible only by footbridge and has a rather peculiar history. Once home to the Eel Pie Hotel, it was a major scene for British R&B, psychedelic rock and trad jazz from the mid-50s until 1970.
It attracted musicians and artists who set up base there, and unsurprisingly became a mecca for parties and legendary music concerts from the likes of The Rolling Stones, The Who, Eric Clapton, and more!
Visit the Eel Pie Island Museum for an in-depth history of the island and how and when to visit.
In the same vein, a bit closer to town opposite Kew Gardens is Johnson’s Island.
Another little islet; this time off the Grand Union Canal and home to an artists’ community and 16 art studios. If you’re in the area and meeting local artists sounds like your bag, reach out to them on their website.
And if you happen to be in town at the end of August next year, check out The Creative Mile – an open house extending across 22 venues over 3 days on Johnson’s Island and the surrounding area.
London if you prefer buildings to people:
Go for a walk in the City on a Sunday
A personal favourite of mine. The City, with a capital C is the closest thing London has to a historic quarter. Although, ironically it is also home to the city’s most famous and controversial glass skyscrapers. Built roughly along the confines of what was once Londinium– a Roman settlement from 2000 years ago, and protected by Roman built city walls (ruins of which still visible today in Moorgate), the former citadel is now home to London’s main financial quarter as well as a host of historical churches, backstreet alley ways and more pubs than you can shake a stick at.
But as densely populated as the area is in terms of buildings, it has the lowest residential quota in the capital. Meaning at the weekends, and in particular on a Sunday, it is Tumbleweed o’clock.
If you love quiet streets, history and architecture take a look at the City of London website. You can download a free 90 minute itinerary for pointers- don’t miss Leadenhall Market, or the Guildhall Art Gallery and Roman Amphitheatre. But do go on a Sunday. It’s eerily beautiful.
London (if you couldn’t afford New York this time):
Take an Uber Boat to Canary Wharf on a Sunday at Sunset
Canary Wharf is London’s second financial quarter, and this trip makes for a great sequel to the City walk above (also a worthy standalone option).
If you walk along the Thames, you get the impression you are going in a straight line, but it’s only really from the river that you can appreciate its curvature; the Thames is very serpentine. Once you pass Tower Bridge, it becomes wider and boats are able to pick up speed and for a split second, you’ll feel like you’re about to head out onto the open seas..
Start at either Westminster (or Embankment). Hop on an Uber Boat (also called Thames Clippers) and go to Canary Wharf Pier. You can buy the ticket directly from the Uber App. Alternatively, you can pay with your contactless card (or Oyster card if you have one) by tapping in and out just like you do on the Tube.
It’s not Manhattan, granted. But take the clipper at dusk, and I dare you not to swoon as you round the bend and approach the skyline, the tall glass buildings inching closer and closer with each passing second. It gives me Working Girl Melanie Griffith on the Staten Island Ferry feels every time.
Once off, go for a wander. Canary Wharf is gleaming, spotless and brand new compared to the London you boarded from. There will be some bars and restaurants still open, but for the most part, deadly quiet, in a kind of urban utopia sort of way. You can make your way back to Central on the Docklands Light Railway (DLR) which runs driverless trains- just for added Bladerunner vibes.
London if you’re a late-night people watcher:
Hippodrome Casino
Hear me out on this one. I have saved more than one night out with this option.
The Hippodrome is on the edge of Leicester Square, opposite the Tube Station and straddling Lisle Street – where Chinatown meets Soho.
It was once a theatre hosting nightly cabaret acts featuring live animals (including tigers) on stage.
When Variety Acts began to lose favour, the Hippodrome became a nightclub with an unsavoury reputation until it finally closed down and rose from the ashes as a 24 hour Casino / Cabaret theatre roughly ten years ago.
Now, I’m no gambler. But like The Smiths, sometimes I want to be taken out (tonight) and I want to see people and I want to see lights. The Hippodrome always delivers.
The West End is an odd place to be past the midnight mark unless you’ve made some very precise plans. Lots of places close surprisingly early and then if you just want a drink, you’re forced to queue up to get in somewhere loud and frankly unappealing unless you’re already three sheets to the wind. So if all you want is somewhere comfortable to have a bit of a laugh, the Hippodrome will save your night. Trust me.
There are about four bars to choose from – one or two on each level. At times it feels more casino-themed than a real casino. There is something so playful and artificial about it.
From the hen parties spilling out of the Magic Mike show (on Level 2), to the professional poker players getting massages from dedicated staff masseurs. The intense looks of concentration at the blackjack table to the utter angst from the slot machines. The energy is bizarre and it’s a great place for people-watching.
As long as you don’t take any pictures, you are welcomed in with open arms and left free and unbothered to roam around, G and T in hand while you soak up the rather odd but entertaining atmosphere. Don’t knock it till you’ve tried it!
London if you’re an intrepid archeologist:
Mudlarking on the Thames
It might not feel like it, but technically, London is a coastal city straddling the Thames Estuary.
City engineers skillfully narrowed the river in central London around 150 years ago to accommodate our much-needed sewers- but the Thames is still very much tidal.
When the tide is out, “beaches” emerge. They’re mostly pebbly but after Blackfriars Bridge get pretty sandy. At low tide, it’s not uncommon to see groups or individuals walking along the shore, pausing to crouch down among the pebbles, seemingly panning for gold. They aren’t with forensics- this isn’t CSI London. These people are most likely mudlarkers! What now? They are historians essentially, who like larking around in the mud (in this case silt) looking for pieces of London treasure!
Everything from horse remains, clay pipes, pieces of pottery and more- practically every piece of shingle is a clue about London’s past. Go with a licensed archeologist on a guided tour – not only will they understand the tides of the Thames (it can be a bit risky walking along the shores of the Thames when you don’t know the timetable) but they can fill you in on all the fascinating history. It’s a fantastic way to see the city.
London if you want to get political:
Have lunch at the Frontline Club…
…and stick around for a panel discussion with independent journalists.
Paddington has a lot going for it. And yet it’s somehow still on the tatty, sometimes seedy side and I’ve never really understood why. The central location makes it prime real estate.
It might have something to do with the major train station (where Paddington Bear makes his London debut) attracting all kinds of transient wayfarers, or maybe it’s because of the major hospital St Mary’s (where I was born and other minor celebrities too like I don’t know, PRINCE WILLIAM).
It’s also home to many dingy bed and breakfasts so perhaps it was inevitable that it would become a magnet for nefarious activities also.
In any case, Paddington has a lot of character, and is a fitting location for the Frontline Club – a place for journalists with a nose for gritty stories.
Nowadays, it’s also a place for non-journalists with a nose for good food and wine. Book a spot for lunch or early dinner, and have a look at what’s on. They hold regular panel discussions and talks about current events and world affairs for members and non-members alike with reports from independent journalists. It’s a little bit of champagne socialism (maybe prosecco, or a nice French wine at the very least), but a great foray into British journalism, current affairs and London life. It is, most definitely, a scene.
London for if you really want to know what it’s all about:
Have a drink or two in Peckham Rye.
Three reasons to head South.
Head to Peckham Rye on the Overground. First stop will be Peckham Levels– an ingeniously repurposed indoor multistorey carpark, now home to artist studios, community spaces, bars and restaurants. In the summer (from roughly May to September), it’s home to Frank’s; one of London’s best-loved rooftop bars offering panoramic views of London’s skyline.
Next head over to the Bussey Building and Copeland Park. An ex-industrial site, this former factory and commercial site was central to the Peckham area in the Victorian age. After surviving several demolition threats, today it thrives as a space for artists, local entrepreneurs, a music and comedy venue, an art gallery, yoga studios and more. There’s always something to see, buy, eat or do.
Finally, in honour of the local and longstanding African-Caribbean community, top off your Peckham experience by heading over to Jumbi where you can enjoy cocktails, Caribbean cuisine and if you’re lucky, a bit of a dance as well thanks to the vast vinyl collection, vintage turntable and speakers. You’ll be encouraged to have a little perusal, so make a request if anything tickles your fancy.
So there you have it. Ten ways to see another side of London; happy exploring!